“A soft light pervades the dusty rooms of the colonial building. Every corner is stashed with testimonies of the department’s recent past.” Away from the overly beaten touristic tracks of the Eje Cafetero, hidden among the anonymous streets of the small town of Calarcá, two unassuming men guard one of the most important treasures of […]
Back from the market this morning I realised I left behind a pineapple and a pound of fresh tomatoes. The little girl behind the stall, probably not even 10 years old, had run off to get my change. She took long enough for me to get involved in negotiations with a Rasta man for fresh […]
“I guess this is it. As we leave Palma, we are faced with at least two weeks of beautifully vast ocean. You will probably see the snow, some might go skiing, others will get stuck on public transport. You will celebrate Christmas, eat loads of sweets, make new resolutions, then you will get drunk and […]
“As we left Maidera a school of pilot Wales approached us in the falling light. So gracious and calm, they surfaced to breathe and to inspect those funny looking creatures peering at them from a plastic box.” Day Ten – 11th December, Sunday, Madeira 11.00am It is sunny out here. João is taking us to […]
“The boat reacts to the ever changing wind, dancing its way from one wave to the next. And I, with her, advance in my journey.” Day Seven – 8th December, Thursday, Atlantic Sea heading South-West 9.00am I had another tough night with very little sleep. Strong winds forced us to roll up the Jib, take […]
“A red rising moon slowly creeps over starboard side, its reflection is like a bloody arm stretched towards the boat.” Day Four – 5th December, Monday, Off the coast of Portugal 8.30am At last I can go to sleep. It has been a tough night watch. With plenty of fishing boats without AIS, we had […]
“There is no doubt I am staring at the reddest moon I’ve ever seen. To its left the lighthouse of Isla La Malante adds an ominous touch to the scene.” Day One – 2nd December 2016, Friday, La Rochelle – France 6.30pm This is it. We are finally off. It is hard to believe this […]